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Author Topic: Injector replacement  (Read 2522 times)

Offline patracy

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Injector replacement
« on: June 18, 2009, 02:43:56 am »
I thought I'd write up the install.  So here goes....

First of all, no need to reinvent the wheel.  There's a great guide on cumminsdatabase here:
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/pdf_files/DD-Injector-Install-Instructions.pdf

Also, I was in a hurry so I didn't get to document as good as I'd have liked to.  And the pic quality isn't the best since the wife ran off with the camera to our early thanksgiving.


*Note* My truck has extra plumbing, you're not missing anything.  It's mostly my second tank system for WVO/Jet A.


First off I popped the hood on a chilly morning.  And lined up the goods on the tailgate along with the tools.




Next step I removed the upper intake horn, APPS assembly, and my top secret flux capacitor lines.  :devil2: (It's my WVO setup and fuel lines)


ALWAYS STUFF THE INTAKE!  You DON'T want anything getting down in that expensive engine!


Next begin removing the fuel line holder bolts.  Don't try undoing the holders unless you want a mess!

Front


Next set


Back set


Next you'll want to remove the engine hook point.  You need it to get the Valve cover out.


Next I started to pull the valve cover bolts out.  I also disconnected my EGT probe as well.  You won't be able to pull the last bolt out from under the cowl.  Just leave it in.


If your truck is "seasoned" like mine, the firewall insulation will crumble like crazy.  A piece of cardboard is your friend! (Later on I ripped all that ratty stuff off my truck)


Next I backed off the injector lines.  Also use a tiny flat head screw driver to pull the crossover tubes back.


Now it's time to start swapping those injectors!  You only need to pull the 8mm bolts out that are furtherest away from the fuel lines to remove the injector holders.  You'll reuse the shorter upper intake bolts to thread them into the head of the injector.  I used a big screwdriver to pry them up using a rocker fulcrum as the pivot point.


Make sure the copper washers come out with the old injectors.  Also when you're ready to reinstall the new ones.  Put a dab of grease below the copper to hold them in place.  Also lube the O rings around the injectors.  (240K miles on those crusty ones)


To reinstall the injectors, I used a extension and hammer to lightly tap them down until I could get the cap to sit on them.  Then start screwing the lines back in place until the crossover tubes are connected to the injectors.  Then tighten the holders.  I buttoned everything up and test fired the truck with the cover off.  It'd suck to get it together and have to take it apart because it didn't fire.


Lastly I reinstalled the cover and mounted the APPS back on.  Just my .02, but when mounting a sealing surface.  Do so just like you would a head.  Starting from the center and working outward.  Once all the tools were gathered up, a test drive was in order!  :punk:


I did have a few issues.  I had a fuel leak.  #1 was leaking.  I pulled the line off and cleaned it with a little sand paper.  As it was cruddy!  Before reinstalling it, I started the engine with the line off to clear anything that might have ended up in the line.  Next issue was totally my fault.  I didn't tighten up the intercooler boot and blew it off.  OOOPS!

 Money well spent!  I only have few other problems...

1. My HX35 is in a loosing battle now.  I can get it toasty now.   

2. I can SHUT DOWN the road now if I want to cruising along and rolling the coal.  Johnny Law might not like this.  :43:

3. My rear tires squeal in protest of my right foot! :taz:
Hers- 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with some stuff
Mine- 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  Stock, cuz it's got a warranty!
        1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9CTD with a LOT of stuff
        1987 Suzuki Samurai...with stuff that doesn't even belong in it!

 

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