this might help you out
start with the basics....
decide what you want... i went with two 10s
decide where you want them installed, and how you want them to look
decide what subs you want... i went with Rockford Fostgate P3 Punches.
now you need to power those subs... i got a Power Acustik 2000w amp.
now to supply power... i went with 4G wire, with any install... deff get a fuse!!
now that you got the basics, lets get to work.
(no pictures for this step)
take the subs outta the boxes and the box outta the truck. get some speaker wire (i used 12G) dual voice coil will have 4 connecters on the bottom side of the sub. an easy install for this is to take the speaker wire and connect power to power and ground to ground on the bottom of the sub. then from one of those power and grounds, run wires to the connectors on the box itself.
once thats done, set the sub how you want it to look once its in the truck. then with the screws provided, secure the sub(s) in place.
that was pretty easy huh? now it gets a lil tougher... but i'll make the truck and amp wiring as easy as possible.
to run the main power wire from the battery to the amp, you need to know how your gonna get the wire there safely. i chose this spot in the firewall...
thru the gasket.
NOTICE: the fuse is out of the holder! this is important to remove first! 
now its time to move to the interior.....
once inside, make sure the power wire is fully through the gasket, pull the slack through and set it aside for right now. *
make sure its NOT connected to the battery yet*
you'll have to break down the dash some... just as if you were installing a headunit (if not, nows the time.)
now once thats done, remove the headunit and install a remote wire and RC wire. (not pictured) aftermarket headunits should have these labeled and easy to spot.
now this is the fun part... time to run those wires!!
once i connected the remote and ground wire, i ran them through the dash, then exited near the center consol under the matting. i removed the center consol (3 bolts) and pulled it up outta the way so i could see better while runnin the wires.
the matting is hard run wires through... so i made it a lil easier and removed the drivers seat and pulled it up.
i ran the wires to the back of the cab. but run them as close to the amp as possible. it makes it easier to hide the wires.
i then reinstalled the shifter consol and drivers seat.
make sure the wires are free and clear from any pinching pointsnow its time to grab that amp... this is where all this wiring is gonna be the most fun and involved.
find out where you want your placed. i hooked mine up behind the driver seat. 90% of the time i drive and have the bottom of the seat foreward a little bit (short legs)
i secured the amp to the back carpeting with 3 of the 4 screws provided. the 4th mount on the amp wasn't close enough to the wall to allow it.
on one side of the amp you have the power, ground and remote wire hookups. on the otherside, the speaker wire and RC hookups.
i'ma start with the pwr,grd, remote wire side first.
take the power wire you set aside earlier and run it down the door sill panels. (not pictured)
once its to the back next to the amp, hidden how you want.. measure out where to cut the wire down. cut it about 1/2in longer than you want. you gotta remove some of the insulation to plug it into the amp. *
don't connect yet*
next, take your ground wire. it should be as big, if not bigger than the power wire. also, it should NOT be longer than 3ft. the shorter the ground wire, the better. the best ground is to the chasis.
i hooked one end to the seat bolt of the drivers seat. then measured it out the same way i did with the power wire. *
double check your work!! make sure the wires are long enough and make sure you have the right locations!!*
once those are measured... its time for the remote wire. run that how you want, but make sure it reaches!
once they are all measured out, remove part of the insulation and hook them to the amp.
there is a recommended order....
Ground
Remote
Power
the battery shouldn't be hooked up right now... so its not life threatening if you don't follow that.
here's how mine looked
now its onto the other side... RC and speaker wire hookups
the rc wire is already ran remember! just plug those in.
before you run your speaker wire... TEST FIT THE BOX AGAIN!!
ok, now take the box and put it nearby its final install place.
i made the wires a lil longer than needed from the nearby location. this allows me to pick the box up and unhook the wires easier if i ever need to uninstall.
now connect them to the amp. *
make sure + goes to + and - goes to -* if not, you'll end up breakin stuff
now... 99% of all the wiring is done!!!
set the subs and box back into its final position, pull any extra wire back and hide it if possible. if not, make sure its away from any pinch points.
put everything back the way it was before the install...
on the left you can see the dash is back together too
now move back to teh engine bay. *
with the fuse still out*
hook the end of the power wire to the battery or the fuse box next to it... i used the fuse box next to it
upon puttin the cover back on, i noticed it didn't wanna fit right... i took care of that with a razor.
now this is better...
after this is hooked up,
DOUBL CHECK EVERYTHING, now its time to put the fuse in.
and then the fuse cover
here's a shot of the engine bay afterwards.
after all this is hooked up, go ahead and power up the system (turn ignition on) but you don't need to start the vehicle.
before the speakers come on, turn the volume down all the way... then SLOWLY turn it up and you can get a feel of how the system will sound.
tune as you wish and enjoy the new addition!!!!
Topic: DIY: System install (Read 3367 times)