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Author Topic: Wheel Stud Replacement  (Read 13260 times)

Offline FroneDaddy

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Wheel Stud Replacement
« on: June 03, 2009, 02:52:50 am »
Someone was asking about what is involved in replacing a wheel stud. It's actually a very simple process and can be done by most anyone with common tools.

For the most party this DIY will apply to all vehicles, but this was done on an '03 Ram 2500 CTD on the right front hub.

You'll need to raise the vehicle, obviously support it with jack stands (make sure the parking brake is set, and I like to use wheel chocks too) and remove the wheel, caliper bracket, brake shoes & rotor.

There are 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket on, you'll probably need a breaker bar for some leverage to remove them. Once you do, remove the bracket along with the brake shoes. Next is the rotor, some people's rotors are a little difficult. Don't hit it directly with a metal hammer. Use a mallet, if you don't have a mallet, put a block of wood on the rotor and hit it lightly with a metal hammer.

After the rotor is off, I used a sledge hammer to remove the damaged stud. You don't have to hit it hard at all, a few light taps and they will fall right out to the rear. As you can see from the first pic, turn the hub so that the stud you are removing is to the rear. There is a little more room there as the dust shield doesn't cover the rear where the caliper bracket is...



Next you'll put the new stud in the hub from the rear. You'll need to put some washers or a nut that is larger than the stud on the outside of the hub over the stud so the socket doesn't bottom out when you run the lug nut on. I prefer to use something that is not threaded so you don't mess up the threads on the new stud. I didn't have any large washers laying around so I used the handle end of an adjustable wrench...



Now use an impact wrench to tighten the lug nut down, as you do this it will press the wheel stud into the hub. Keep checking the backside of the hub to see when there's no longer a gap between the stud and the hub...



When the gap is closed, the stud is in & you're done...



Put the rotor back on, brake shoes, re-bolt the caliper bracket and put the wheel on. Torque the lug nuts to 155 ft/lbs. Pay close attention to the the lug nut on the new wheel stud, it may take a few extra turns than the rest to achieve the correct torque as it may not have fully seated with the impact wrench. Now, have a beer!
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Offline 04cumminsram

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Re: Wheel Stud Replacement
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2009, 02:55:41 am »
great write up man

did you replace the cotter pin in your axle??? after or before the beer... :cheers:
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Offline Cumminalong

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Re: Wheel Stud Replacement
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2009, 02:58:00 am »
Nice!

Good write-up brother!

 :up:

Offline FroneDaddy

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Re: Wheel Stud Replacement
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2009, 02:59:06 am »
great write up man

did you replace the cotter pin in your axle??? after or before the beer... :cheers:

LMAO!

Before...I think :lol:
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Offline noplugs

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Re: Wheel Stud Replacement
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2009, 04:10:20 am »
Nicely done
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