Won't shift to 4wd

[Scott91370]

After getting my new torque convertor installed I ca no longer get the 4wd to engage.  The manual says:
1)  Vehicle speed too great - not the issue, truck was just running not moving.
2) If vehicle was operated for an extended period in 4h on drive pavement... - Again, truck was not moving.
3) Tansfer case external shift linkage binding - Shifter, shift rod and shift bar on t-case are in good shape.
4) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant - ATF+4 filled to fill hole.
5) Internal components binding, worn or damaged - What inside would keep it from shifting?  Are there shift forks similar to a standard tranny?

It worked before it went in but in 4L it didn't seem to have the gear reduction.

[Motorbrreath]

check to see if you have vaccum at the central axle disconnect

[biged681985]

id check the vacuum lines. make sure u have the top plug in the trans case plugged in good

[Kilch123]

Before I did anything, I'd check the linkage - torque converter means pulling the tranny and transfer, and they probably got the linkage out of adjustment

first thing I would do would be to disconnect the linkage and move the transfer by hand - check to make sure it hits 4H, 4L, N, and 2H - then just make sure the linkage is adjusted properly and reconnect

[Cumminalong]

Yup, like Tom said.....sounds like the linakge is out of whack.

Whenever you pull the trans, you disconnect the linkage. Now, it's no necessary to disconnect the adjuster, all you need to do is pull the end link off the ball and nothing gets out of adjustment.

But, if they removed the adjuster, it could be out.

Fix it quick, this is was destroyed Eric's t-case. If it's out of adjustment, you may not be getting full contact on the gears and that's bad ju-ju.

[Motorbrreath]

Heres the adjustment procedure:

ADJUSTMENT - SHIFT LEVER
Move shift lever into 2H position.
Raise vehicle.
Loosen shift rod lock bolt at trunnion (Shift Rod Lock Bolt Location).
Check shift rod fit in trunnion. Be sure rod does not bind in trunnion. Lubricate the shift rod and trunnion if necessary.
Verify that transfer case shift lever is in 2H detent position. The 2H detent position on the transfer case shift arm is the second position from full forward.
Align the adjustment locating hole on the lower shifter lever with the adjustment channel on the shifter bracket assembly (Shifter Adjustment Location).
Insert an appropriately sized pin through into the adjustment channel and through the locating hole to hold the shifter in the correct position.
Tighten shift rod lock bolt to 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.) torque.
Remove the locating pin from the adjustment channel and locating hole.
Check shift linkage operation. Be sure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in all ranges.

[96GreenMachine]

I'm gonna hijack this thread for one question of personal interest, this may be a pointless question, i know i have a manual and you have an auto and mines not even diesel, but for you guys, could this be my issue with getting the truck into four wheel drive? I have the issue where it doesn't go all the way into 4lo, like i think its in and a i start to drive and then it pops out with a loud bang? Is this the same thing scot is facing or do i have a different problem?

[Scott91370]

I think your's is different.  Mine doesn't even start to move, like something is holding it in 2H.

[Scott91370]

Heres the adjustment procedure:...

That's the proceedure I have and when I loosened the lock bolt on the trunion I still could not move through the t-case gears.  I will climb under again today between the kiddo's activities and take a little more time to check things out. 

[Motorbrreath]

Heres the adjustment procedure:...

That's the proceedure I have and when I loosened the lock bolt on the trunion I still could not move through the t-case gears.  I will climb under again today between the kiddo's activities and take a little more time to check things out. 

Heres the flow chart:

Condition 
Transfer Case difficult to shift or will not shift into desired range.

Possible Cause
1) Vehicle speed too great to permit shifting.
2) If vehicle was operated for an extended period in 4H on a dry paved surface, the driveline torque load may be causing a bind.   
3) Transfer case external shift linkage binding. 
4) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant. 
5) Internal components binding, worn, or damaged. 


Correction
1) Stop vehicle and shift into desired range. Or, reduce speed to below 3-4 km/h (2-3 mph) before attempting the shift. 
2) Stop vehicle and shift the transmission into neutral. Shift the transfer case to 2H and operate vehicle in 2H on dry paved surfaces.
3) Lubricate, repair, or replace linkage bushings, or tighten loose components as necessary. 
4) Drain and refill to edge of fill hole with Mopar® ATF +4, type 9602, Automatic Transmission fluid. 
5) Disassemble the transfer case and replace worn or damaged components as necessary. 

[Scott91370]

1)  Vehicle speed too great - not the issue, tried this with truck running- moving and not; not running in gear and neutral...no luck.

2) If vehicle was operated for an extended period in 4h on drive pavement... - haven't used 4wd in a long time, not since rebuild anyway.

3) Tansfer case external shift linkage binding - Shifter, shift rod and shift bar on t-case are in good shape. I disconnected the linkage from the shifter and tried moving it by hand.  When under the truck if I push linkage forward it moves about half a shift.  No movement when pushing backwards.  It looks like it can not go backwards at all becuase the linkage bolted to the t-case will hit the housing.

4) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant - ATF+4 filled to fill hole.

5) Internal components binding, worn or damaged - This is my fear.  Whoohooo!  Mo-money! 

Guess it's time to pull the t-case since I am headed to Colorado for hunting in about 5 weeks.  This s^cks!



Edit: If the truck is truely in 2wd the front driveshaft should spin freely, right?  If not the front driveshaft  is engaged in the t-case, right? Or do I need to jack up the front end to test this and spin the tires by hand?

[Kilch123]

Scott - the front drive shaft is permanently connected to the left front wheel, and the shift collar on the front axle disengages the right axle when in 2WD.

If your truck is in 2WD, you should be able to turn the front shaft with the wheels on the ground (it will be stiff, but should turn)

[Scott91370]

I thought it would turn before.  Now it doesn't.  So this means the t-case is locked in 4wd.  But when I yanked the guy outta the mud the other day only the rear wheels spun...or maybe the rear wheels and one front.  So from the little I have been able to understand it seems maybe the range secotr or range fork could be damaged.
If my car was running right (water temps get high) I'd pull the t-case apart tomorrow.  I'll have to figure something out.


Edit: one other thing I have noticed since getting it back I have a vibration under acceleration.  I think it's that the driveshaft was not put back in the way it came out, but I guess this could have something to do with the t-case issue.

[Scott91370]

Now the dilema is just the opposite.  I was looking at the linkage and stuff earlier today and it went into 4wd and now it won't come out.  If I can't get it to shift out, is there any danger of pulling the driveshaft until I can yank out the t-case and find out what parts I need?

[Motorbrreath]

you have something internally damaged, id snatch it off and take a look inside