Yay.... wheel bearing went tonight :(

[pctgreg]

Just ordered two timken hubs off amazon and had them shipped overnight.  they'll get here friday.  I'm gonna grab some u-joints too.  Any suggestions?  I prefer non-greasables.  Should I find Stock dana's?  They lasted me 140k, and still good to go lol.  Should I consider ball joints too while im in there... or save that fun for another day?

[Batman]

Ball joints are up to you.   I tend to put those in a "ain't broke don't fix" category, but since you're already tearing down that far if those things show even a little bit of wiggle that they shouldn't have I'd be inclined to replace them.  If they're still tight I wouldn't bother.

Since you are talking about the u-joints better get axle seals too.  I know some guys have good luck and don't hurt the seals pulling the axles and putting them back in, but from my experience you will damage those old dry seals.  Then a week down the road after you just had the front end apart you'll have to pull it all apart again to change the stupid seals that are leaking.  $0.02

[pctgreg]

Ball joints are up to you.   I tend to put those in a "ain't broke don't fix" category, but since you're already tearing down that far if those things show even a little bit of wiggle that they shouldn't have I'd be inclined to replace them.  If they're still tight I wouldn't bother.

Since you are talking about the u-joints better get axle seals too.  I know some guys have good luck and don't hurt the seals pulling the axles and putting them back in, but from my experience you will damage those old dry seals.  Then a week down the road after you just had the front end apart you'll have to pull it all apart again to change the stupid seals that are leaking.  $0.02

I think i'll take your advise and hold off on the ball joints.  As far as I know, they are stock, the boots are dryrotted a bit... but also arn't bad either.  I'm have to do some thinking on the seals.   My buddy replaced the one seal you put in from the drivers side... and it leaked lol.  Damn if you do, damn if you don't.

[Mitch]

Ball joints are up to you.   I tend to put those in a "ain't broke don't fix" category, but since you're already tearing down that far if those things show even a little bit of wiggle that they shouldn't have I'd be inclined to replace them.  If they're still tight I wouldn't bother.

Preventive maintenance. Its better to do em now and not have to worry about them going out and taking other suspension components with them. If you have got a lot of miles on the vehicle, and you are going to be replacing components that require you to take the vehicle down to that level, what's another $1-200 for peace of mind and trouble free miles?

[pctgreg]

Preventive maintenance. Its better to do em now and not have to worry about them going out and taking other suspension components with them. If you have got a lot of miles on the vehicle, and you are going to be replacing components that require you to take the vehicle down to that level, what's another $1-200 for peace of mind and trouble free miles?

I agree Mitch, but I gotta save it for another day.  I'm not going to replace my current ones with local crappy moog joints... I'd just rather not replace them at all then.  I gotta order some, and it will have to be job for another weekend.  I'll antiseize the hub/knuckle so it'll be easier to get back out.  I gotta get the truck back on the road asap for work.  After 7 months of no work, i'm hoping this contract job i'm 1 month into will convert to a hired position.  I've already been interviewed for a position that my bosses put me in for, and put there names down as references.

Also, One of my hubs came in today... and I tracked down some Dana Spicer u-joints...  the heavier duty ones.  5-760x.  Talk about a pita to track down...  but they were found 40 minutes away.  Everyone sells precision around here...  but i've been impressed with the stock joints that still have not failed. 



My other hub comes in tomorrow, and my 1/2 drive 1-11/16 impact socket comes in tomorrow.  I've done the chisel method to remove the hub on a buddys truck, but that gets old quick.  I went to autozone and rented the 5lb slide hammer, and axle puller attachment.  I've never tried this method, but since it is free to rent, i'll give it a shot.

[mayfair]

Seems like "tis the season" for hubs going out. I just had mine done a few months ago.

[pctgreg]

Well I just wanted to report that my other hub came in today, but amazon left me empty handed with the hub nut socket.  They said it would be here fri.... and never came.  It apparently got lost between amazon and UPS.  So...  I gotta see what I can find tomorrow morning locally 

[pctgreg]

Well as usual...   after I'm done a repair I come back and post pics, tips, and comments.  I followed the DIY at PS, because they did a very nice write up.  All in all, I was making the repair out to be bigger than it needed to be, because I have always seen a chisel used to separate the hub from the knuckle.   I mentioned the other day that I got that slide hammer and axle puller flange to give that a shot.  I also ran across an interesting piece of information.  I have never heard or seen these before.

http://matcotools.com/catalog/product/FSH382/HUB-REMOVAL-KIT-FOR-DODGE-PU/

So...   it makes perfect sense.  The hub bolts have flanges on them, and this item is just a socket that you can put in an air chisel.  Why can't I just take my 12pt socket.... and meet it with a hammer?  Well, I did.  I'd turn all 3 bolts free 4/5 turns and tap with a hammer to get the hub moving to start.  I then followed up with a combination of socket taping, and the 5lb slide hammer.  I tried to keep my socket tapping to a minimum if fear of damaging the bolt theads... but then again i'm reminded of of the air chisel doing the same thing.  I will fast forward a bit to when I was installing the new hub.  When I installed the bolts, there were no burr's or anything.  I was able to run the bolts all the way in by hand.  Just proves that the air chisel/socket method works very nice!

Other notes...  I originally thought it was my hub.  I would have put money down on it because when I jacked it up and turned the passenger wheel... it was an inconsistant noise.  The camera enhanced the sound... and for whatever reason it was consistent when I recorded it    I also had my hand on the u joint when I was turning it... and I didn't feel it popping or binding.  I definitely sounded like it was coming from the bearing.  Well, I was wrong, but I installed the new hubs too anyway.  When the hubs were mounted....  I figured the brakes should get done too, so I tossed on a set of those too.   ooooo shiny.

http://s422.photobucket.com/albums/pp307/desgre90/HubsUjointsRotors/?action=view&current=2012-01-28_09-16-14_926.mp4



Here was the real culprit.  Lack of lube in the caps / rusted.  The u-joint that was making noise had broken needle bearings.  Half of the u-joint was locked up, and actually was the same on the other side too.  It was very difficult to rotate both shafts.  They were well over due lol.



And finally new hubs, new brakes... ready to rock and roll.



Would I do it again....   in a heart beat.  Like I said I had seen it done with a chisel, and the result is damaged brake shields, which doesn't happen the way I did it.  11 year rusted in hubs came out in literally no more than 5 minutes... and thats because I the wheel had to keep getting turned opposite to access the bolts when you want to tap them.  Same thing with the other side too.  5 minutes to knock the hub out not rushing... and good to go.  Only took pic's of the passenger side because the driver side is obviously the same lol.

[pctgreg]

Things were good...  until I saw the driveway earlier today.  Passenger side axle seal leak.  Darn    Not sure how this one is gonna work out...   Thats the pita seal mid axle.

[Mitch]

Don't you just hate that? After all that work, getting it back together, then seeing the damn thing leak! Makes me want to burn the damn thing down some times.

[pctgreg]

Don't you just hate that? After all that work, getting it back together, then seeing the damn thing leak! Makes me want to burn the damn thing down some times.

Haha... seriously.  Repair went great.  I took extra care when putting the shafts back in... no luck    Drivers side ain't leaking.  I was praying the oil I found was just what over flowed over the seal after I removed the shaft since that's the side I started on first.  No dice.  I jacked up the one side, shot some brake clean up the axle to try to get whatever was in there out....  Thought everything was good.  I topped off the diff, and went for a test drive to see what would happen.  Oil on the tire, wheel well, and slung all the way back to my exhaust tip lol. 



I'm not sure what i'm gonna do.  Most don't seem to have luck with using the washer method to pull it in.  I read one guy has 9 failed attempts to make it seal using that method.  My friend has four failed attempts.  The problem is, the washer pulls against the rubber sealing surface, and not the metal part of the seal.  The right tool to pull it in is $115 + ship.  Downside is they have to be used with certain seals... and if I screw up, I'll have to order more and play the waiting game...  I'm going to see if I can get a hold of what ever tool dodge uses...   I'll hopefully know tomorrow afternoon if that works out.  If that ain't going to work, i'm going to try to find a piece of pvc pipe I can use to stick between the seal and washer to act as a spacer so the washer would press against the pvc, and directly on the metal part.  If I can't find that...  I'm considering making a mold of this seal out of jb weld to make my own seal holder to pull it in straight.

[pctgreg]

Well...   I just dropped $130 on the right tool to install this seal.      I can't save money worth a damn.

[mayfair]

Damn dude!

Did you replace the seal?

[pctgreg]

Not yet... i don't think the tool will even get here till early next week.

Edit, Just got a tracking number for it.  Scheduled for next Tuesday delivery.  If it doesn't get done after work some night next week, it'll have to wait until I get back from the gun show that Sunday.

[pctgreg]

Tool finally came in yesterday.  I needed an extra hand setting the seal depth (rod would want to spin), so I had to wait for my buddy to get off second shift.  I had it tore down ready to rock and roll by the time he got home.  Obviously he had to get situated after getting home... eat some, etc.  So that pushed it back.  Then the bull shitting happened, and by the time we were cleaning up... it was already 2:30 in the morn. I'm running on 3 hrs of sleep    Anyway... back to the point.

Here is the tool.



Pretty simple setup, but if your not familiar with the axle seal at the CAD, I don't see how it is possible to set it properly without it.  If you can... your lucky.   On the rod to the left is the seal holder, and on the right is a plate for the end of the axle tube to keep everything centered.  The seal in the pic was my old one.... but it doesn't look stock to me.  Looks exactly like a timken seal.  Normally i'm the type that would have just bought the seal holder and made the rest, but by the time I buy nuts, washers, all thread, etc.. I'm better off saving the trip to lowes, and just buy it ready to rock and roll.

I know the picture sucks, but here is the a pic of the tool in use from the outside.



I found this tool by searching the web, and ran across the video on youtube of a guy who used this tool.  I'd like to post the link because he gives a very accurate walk through of the process for anyone who might need to do this down the road.



My personal variances from the video...

1. His seal depth was not the same as mine.  I referenced the existing seal depth with the seal holder before I knocked it out.  Mine needed to be driven deeper than his.  Reference your existing depth before

2. Definitely buy the CR seal.  it is a lot beefier than the timken seal.  I didn't think to snap a pic, but the rubber sealing edge is a lot thicker.  Also on the side the axle would enter, there is a lip to guide it through the seal so you don't damage the seal when putting the axle back in.  That was the seal that was supposed to be in the truck stock... and was not.

3.  I noticed in his video the caliper bracket did not need to be removed.  Might be a change in 01 with the dual piston brakes, but I had too in order to remove the rotor.

All in all.... It's done!  Feels good to drive the ram again