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Author Topic: Finally happened  (Read 2892 times)

Offline Smitty

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Re: Finally happened
« Reply #15 on: January 13, 2016, 04:47:21 pm »
Yep, same here. Fronts at 50, back at 70. Max is 80 on them.

Posted on a RV forum asking the same question. One answer was to check the rim...there is suppose to be info such as max weight and air pressure  for that rim. I found the weight, but nothing about air pressure. The sticker on the 5er said to inflate old tires at 65, I assume the rims are rated at least 65 pounds. Decided to go with 70 pounds for now. See how they wear and go from there.
2017 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4, 6.7 CTD
2016 Heritage Glen 272RLS

Offline kenz

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Re: Finally happened
« Reply #16 on: January 14, 2016, 12:19:33 am »
Deflation ratings on on tires can be a slippery slope. Some recommend it, some brands don't. A few of the big players have charts on there web sites to calculate weight to inflation pressure. To do it properly on a trailer you have to find a chart for the tire manufacturer and have the trailer axles wieghed. When you add or subtract wieght (supplies, water, gray/black tank levels) air pressures have to be adjusted. Basically to me the only benefit to lowering air pressure is a little more cushy ride. Unfortunately on a travel trailer lower air pressure can lead to more bouncing. I run my truck tires at 50-60psi in the winter (always running empty, helps with the snow), and in the spring they get bumped to 80psi. The trailer stays at 80psi.

Trailer wheels should be good up to 80psi. Would have to upgrade the wheels if you were to go with G rated tires, as they max at 110psi.


2005 QC Dually 2wd CTD 6-spd. SRT-6, AEM Brute Force intake, Smarty Sr., D.O.F. shift knob, 5" to dual side exit 4" exhaust, Quad Scout, road kill kat, 2011 Coachmen North Ridge fifth wheel

I MAY BE OLD, BUT I GOT TO SEE ALL THE GOOD BANDS.....

Offline Smitty

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Re: Finally happened
« Reply #17 on: January 14, 2016, 12:31:47 am »
Deflation ratings on on tires can be a slippery slope. Some recommend it, some brands don't. A few of the big players have charts on there web sites to calculate weight to inflation pressure. To do it properly on a trailer you have to find a chart for the tire manufacturer and have the trailer axles wieghed. When you add or subtract wieght (supplies, water, gray/black tank levels) air pressures have to be adjusted. Basically to me the only benefit to lowering air pressure is a little more cushy ride. Unfortunately on a travel trailer lower air pressure can lead to more bouncing. I run my truck tires at 50-60psi in the winter (always running empty, helps with the snow), and in the spring they get bumped to 80psi. The trailer stays at 80psi.

Trailer wheels should be good up to 80psi. Would have to upgrade the wheels if you were to go with G rated tires, as they max at 110psi.

Yes, that seemed to be the biggest reply on the RV forum...weight to inflation pressure. Another recommended to go ahead and go to 80. He was stating that it is safer to have over inflated tires than under inflated tires. Guess I can run them up to 80 and see how they start wearing.

Ken, do you run 80 in both the front and rear tires on your truck?
2017 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4, 6.7 CTD
2016 Heritage Glen 272RLS

Offline kenz

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Finally happened
« Reply #18 on: January 18, 2016, 02:37:18 pm »
Yep. 80 all the way around. Last set went 75k when I replaced them last spring. 

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2005 QC Dually 2wd CTD 6-spd. SRT-6, AEM Brute Force intake, Smarty Sr., D.O.F. shift knob, 5" to dual side exit 4" exhaust, Quad Scout, road kill kat, 2011 Coachmen North Ridge fifth wheel

I MAY BE OLD, BUT I GOT TO SEE ALL THE GOOD BANDS.....

 

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