How to replace your 2nd gen clutch:
This is not a project to be undertaken by the backyard 'oil changer' - special tools and equipment make this job much safer and efficient.
I completed this swap in a shop with a lift and transmission jack. If you don't have access to these, the job will be a PITA
Start by removing the center console and shifter:
remove the 6 screws from the shifter boot and slide the boot up
Lift the boot from the 4wd selector to access the hold-down bolt for the center console, remove all the hold down bolts (note - there is a bolt under the cup-holder rubber tray)
Remove the center console from over the two shifters (this requires a lot of wiggling and cussing)
Remove the bolts holding the lower shift boot to the floor
Remove the 4 bolts from the shifter base and remove the shifter
Cover the top of the transmission with a rag to keep contaminants out
Now - under the truck - I used a shop with wheel lift
Remove rear drive shaft (I marked the yoke and shaft with a sharpie for re-installation)
I removed the straps retaining the rear universal joint, then removed the two bolts holding the hanger bearing in place, then positioned a drain pan below the transfer case output seal and gently slide the drive shaft out of the transfer case and store out of the way. Make sure you protect the splined yoke that goes into the transfer case from damage and contamination, and secure the rear universal joint caps from falling off.
Remove the front drive shaft (I only disconnected the front of the shaft from the front differential, and then left the shaft hang from the transfer case) Mark the yoke as with the rear shaft
I did not remove the double joint from the transfer case:
Remove the skid plate from under the transfer case
Remove the steel lines supplying the transfer case (3 bolts)
Unplug electrical connector on top of the transmission (driver's side)
Disconnect vacuum lines on top of transfer case (single and 4 tube plug)
Disconnect transfer case linkage
This was very difficult - used WD-40 to lubricate the rubber bushing then pried out with large screwdriver
Remove clutch slave cylinder bolts and remove slave cylinder
When removed, the pushrod is under pressure - I used a wire tie to retain the push-rod
I supported the engine with a large jack stand under the oil pan, and positioned a transmission jack under the transmission
Secured the transmission to the jack with a ratchet strap
Remove the transmission crossmember and transmission mount (once the 8 bolts into the frame are removed, and the two bolts in the transmission mount, the crossmember needs to be slid to the rear of the truck for removal)
Remove the upper transmission mount to free it from the exhaust hanger
Remove the bell housing bolts, and remove the transmission/transfer case
This took some wiggling - had to lower slightly to clear the shift tower from the floor
no pics here - had both hands full
Remove the pressure plate from the flywheel (8 bolts) - make sure you are supporting the pressure plate when removing the last bolt
Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft (8 bolts) leave 1 top bolt still in but loose
using a prybar, pry the flywheel away from the crankshaft then support it and remove the last bolt
Inspect the rear main seal
There was evidence of a slight leak on mine, so I decided to replace it
Drill two 1/8 inch holes thru the seal and screw sheet metal screws into the hole, then use a crow bar or claw hammer to remove the old seal
Clean the seal area, then install the new seal with the supplied installer
Follow the instructions included with your new clutch - below are the steps I took:
Install the new (or machined) flywheel, and use locktite (red) on the bolts - torque to 110 ft-lbs
Using the clutch alignment tool, hang the clutch plate on the flywheel
Install the pressure plate, and using a criss cross pattern, tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly (only go a few turns at at time to not distort the pressure plate)
Torque to 30 ft-lbs
Make sure that the clutch alignment tool slides freely then remove the tool
Remove the old throw-out bearing, and clean, inspect, and lube the clutch fork (at the pivots on each end, and on the flats that the throw-out bearing rides on)
Clean the input shaft of the transmission - especially where the throw-out bearing rides
Lube lightly the inside bore of the throw-out bearing
Reinstall the transmission:
Line up the transmission to the engine, and move forward gently - line up the input shaft to the clutch (most likely necessary to reinstall the shifter, and shift to 3rd gear so that you can turn the transmission input shaft by turning the output shaft by hand)
Move the transmission forward until the bell housing contacts the engine by hand - DO NOT try to pull them together with the bolts - BAD things will happen!
Install the bell housing bolts and tighten
Install the transmission crossmember and mount
Remove the transmission jack
Connect the vacuum lines and electrical plug
Install the clutch slave cylinder
Install the steel lines to the transmission crossmember and reattach
Install the front drive shaft
Install the skid plate
Install the rear drive shaft - I used a jack stand to support the hanger bearing while installing the rear universal joint
Install the transfer case linkage
Lower your truck and fully install the shifter, seal the lower boot and install
Install the center console and bolt down
Install the upper shifter boot, and the 4wd shifter boot
Check the level in the clutch master cylinder and adjust as necessary
Make sure transmission is in neutral, and start the truck
Depress the clutch, and shift to 1st gear, and slowly let out the clutch to make sure it engages
Follow the clutch manufacturer's recommendations for break-in