Alright folks- dodge calls for this to be done every 15,000 miles, from the best that ive been able to find out, its mainly due to the LSD models due to the clutch retainer packs falling down and getting ground up into the ring and pinion....
Things needed
13mm socket
Differential fluid (check owners manual for your specific capacities), i use Amsoil severe gear
RTV Silicone
Razor blade (to scrape old RTV off)
Brake cleaner
Rags
Large catch pan
Flathead screwdriver (maybe)
First start off by lossening the top two bolts, don't take them out, they will still need to be able to hold the cover.
Then undo the bottom 4 completely. If you can't break the RTV seal then use the flathead gently and slide in the bottom and use it like a pry bar, now as i said, use it gently so you dont dent the metal. This will allow most of the fluid to come out in a controlled manor.
Next unbolt the next 2 on each side (they are the only two that form a verticle line) This should then get the rest of the fluid out.
Then unbolt all bolts and remove cover...
Now that the cover is off
Check the teeth on the ring and pinion for any chipping as this could lead to a rear end failure.
There is a magnet at the bottom of the pumpkin, check for and remove any metal filings you find.
Some people pull the rest of the fluid out by hand (use gloves), there should not be much to pull out and is not a needed step.
Now take brake cleaner to the existing RTV silicone and then use the razor blade to scrape it off, don't forget to do the same to the part of the housing that remains on the truck.
Now youre ready to put the RTV silicone on the truck, you will want to make one continuous bead, looping every hole for the bolts. Attach the cover back to the truck and hand tighten all bolts, then tighten each bolt with the socket wrench, at 25 pound/feet (25 #/ft is approx and you do not need a torque wrench)
Let sit for up to an hour before filling the differential up with the fluid you bought ( I personally do it right away and do not wait)
Drive it around the block, come back and check the level, it should be .5 inch below fill hole.
Notes
2500/3500 use Gaskets not RTV, the Unbolting process i described was for the 9.25 but the similar concept can be used for the 2500/3500 pumpkins
If you buy differential fluid that comes in bottles similar to oil bottles then youll need a hand pump ($10-$20) or you can buy the ones that have a nozzle and you squirt in.
You should be on level ground when filling up the differential fluid. If you must jack your truck up to get to the rear axle use jack stands after you lift it and make sure they are rated for more than your trucks weight.
You may want to consider buying a larger pan so it will keep the temperature down a few degrees and if you tow quite a bit buying one with a thermostat hole would be a good idea. Also a lot of after market covers have a drain plug which makes it a cleaner job.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions
Should take you 1hr the first time and 45 min or so once youve done it before.
Topic: DIY 3rd Gen Rear Differential Fluid Change (Read 10045 times)