On a dually the rotors are inboard so you got a little more work ahead of ya then if it were a fleetside truck. Ok start by pulling the wheels off the rear axle.
Unbolt the axle shaft (9/16" socket)
Once all the bolts are removed, remove the axle shaft. And easy way to get the axle flange seperated is to take a hammer and hit the center of the flange. Make sure you got a drain bucket under the hub.
Then just pull the axle out.
Next you'll need to remove the caliper. 2 bolts from the backside (18mm socket)
And set the caliper aside, dont just leave it dangling from the line
Now remove this orange snap ring
You'll need a 2 5/8" 6 stud socket to remove the wheel bearing retainer nut.
Next pull the hub off being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearing. (this process is a lot easier if you disengage the park brake first
)
With the inner part of the hub facing down, take a brass or aluminum bar and knock out the inner bearing and seal. Careful not to destroy the bearing cage
With the hub out of the way, you need to remove the inner wear sleeve left on the axle. Easiest way is with a cold chisel. We are not cutting the sleeve off, just dimpling the surface
Doing this causes the metal to stretch, repeat 4 to 5 times around the sleeve and it'll just slide right off.
Unbolt the rotor from the hub (15mm socket). If you dont have an impact gun, set the hub into a wheel to keep it from turning
Clean up all parts with solvent (brakeclean and lint free rags will work) Also take a little scotchbrite to the seal surfaces on the axle in the hub.
With everything cleaned up its time to install the new rotor, red locktite on the bolt threads and torqued to 100ft lbs
Lubricate and install the inner wheel bearing
There is a little spring inside the new wheel seal that can come out sometimes during install. To prevent this pack the seal with lithium grease
Install the seal into the hub using a seal driver
Install the hub onto the axle, before installing outer wheel bearing, fill the hub up with oil.
And lubricate and install outer wheel bearing and retaining nut.
While spinning hub, toque nut down to 55ft lbs to seat bearings, then back off nut. Then retorque to 22ft lbs while spinning the hub and back nut off 30°
You keyways might not be lined up after this, back the adjustment up to the next slot if needed. Do not go tighter to line up keyways, you will cause excessive wear by doing so.
Install key and snap ring.
Either install a new flange seal or use some silicone and install axle shaft. Bolts torqued to 95ft lbs with locktite 212
Install new calipers. Slide pin bolts 13mm socket and torqued to 11ft lbs. Caliper adapter bolts 18mm socket torqued to 100ft lbs with red locktite
Clamp brake line off careful not to damage line.
Remove line from old caliper and install on new caliper with new copper washers. 15mm socket torqued to 20ft lbs.
Open bleeder screw on caliper and remove clamp from brake line. Open cap on brake reservoir and let system gravity bleed while you do the other side. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.
Once fluid starts to flow out bleeder, lock bleeder down. Have another person step on brake pedal and hold it down. Open bleeder, once pedal hits floor, lock bleeder down and release brake pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles are present.
Keep an eye on the fluid level and top off as necessary.
Bleed order is right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I didnt replace the front calipers so they dont need to be bled. Put the wheels back on and your ready for a road test.
Topic: Rear rotors and calipers (AAM dually) (Read 3843 times)