Here are the pictures of mine:
The blue of the LEDs I chose matched my Pioneer DEH-P6000UB deck a lot better than I had anticipated they would. I had planned for them to be close since before I bought the deck and the LEDs as I wanted all blue dash lighting.
These are the LEDs I used:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=12568+OP and then I went and used this calculator
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz to figure out the appropriate resistor value based on 12v DC and 14.4v DC as my source voltage. You also need the diode forward voltage (the voltage the LED is suppose to use for power) and the diode forward current in mA, both of these pieces of information should be provided by the LED manufacturer as it can be different from LED to LED. My results for these specific LEDs are as follows:
12v would require a 1/2W 470ohm resistor to keep the LED from burning out.
14.4v would require a 1/2W 560ohm resistor to keep the LED from burning out.
I went with both 12v and 14.4v because 12v is what the battery normally puts out for DC current when the truck isn't running and when the truck is running the alternator/battery puts out 14.4v. I wanted to make sure that the LEDs wouldn't burn out in either situation so I went with 560ohm resistors, the higher of the two.
I searched online for the resistors as I couldn't find any place local to get them. I can't remember where I got them but if I ever find my receipt I will post it up here for others. I got metal film resistors as they are the best compromise for this sort of work. Here is a good site for descriptions on the different types of resistors there are,
http://www.pc-control.co.uk/resistor-types.htm.
Once I had my resistors I soldered them to the positive side of the LED, this diagram shows the polarity:
I then used heat shrink tubing on the LED terminals to keep them protected from shorting out on other contacts. Here is an example of an LED I set up for testing the polarity of the terminals on the cluster and switches so I knew what side to solder where. This is the same way I created the ones I actually soldered to my switches and cluster, I just had to position each resistor/LED combo slightly different to not block light output and for it to fit.
Unlike this image, all of the LEDs I soldered into place I had sanded the surface of the LEDs to difuse the light and to try to eliminate spot lights.
After I tested all of the terminals to determine what was positive and negative current, I marked them as I tested. I then took it all in side and soldered all of the lights onto the switches and my cluster. To do this I had to completely dismantle my cluster, including taking the needles off. This needs to be done very carefully as the needles need to go back on exactly where they came off to line up properly again. In my case I tried my best not to bump the post the needles slip onto but manage to and it has taken me a few tries to get the needles back close to what they were before. I still have a couple more adjustments to do before I am completely happy with their alignment. To test this there is a cluster test method I used, which is hold in your ODO/Trip meter button on the cluster while you turn your key to the ON position. This cycles all of the gauges through their normal movement and they should all stop on the last line of each gauge. If they are off you know so by where they stop. In my case my speedometer was so off it wouldn't register my speed until I hit 30KPH. So be very careful.
Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures during the process as I had lent my camera to a friend. The next time I take my cluster apart to adjust my needles again I will take some pictures of it to show how I did mine.
If you need LEDs and are up for the challenge of doing this yourself I would recommend checking out
www.mpja.com as I have ordered from them on multiple occasions and I am very pleased with the customer service of calling in my order and how quick they have gotten things processed. I have also ordered online from them with great success.
If you have any questions just let me know.
Steve