Okay folks, I was helping another guy out that wanted to do a smoke switch, but he didn't know how to do it.
After a ton of searching, I couldn't find a good write up or DIY for the 1998.5 - 2000 CTD, which has a different MAP sensor layout then the 2001 - 2002 24V's.
So, after a little bit of research, a little bit of math and a phone call to Dave for the wiring diagram, here is what you need to do to do a smoke switch on an early 24V CTD.
NOW, you MUST have a boost fooler, Edge Comp, Quadzilla Adrenaline or other boost fooling type box for this to work. If not, the engine gets a dead pedal condition, as it defuels for safety and it defeats the purpose. So if you don't have a box or other boost fooler, this WILL NOT work for you.
The items you need for this mod are cheap and easy. You need a 2 pole on/off switch, a 10 or 33 ohm resistor, a few feet of 18 or 19 gauge wiring, 2 wire taps or your choice, and 2 spade connectors to connect to the switch you are using. Total of maybe $10 - $15.
Here is what you need to do....
First, let's identify what's different on the 1998.5 - 2000 CTD MAP sensor. All it is, is the shape of the plug and the wire layout. The early 24V's have a round / triangular shaped connector on the MAP sensor that looks like this:
The wires that are associated with this sensor are:
Now, lets look at how this gets laid out....
You have your map sensor and the wiring that comes out of it and the switch that gets mounted in the cab.
What you need to do is tap into the (A) and (C) wires and run those wires to the switch. What this does is send a FULL BOOST signal to the ECM when you hit the switch / button and this allows it to dump fuel.
BUT, this WILL trip your CEL if it's left on for too long. You'll get a code for Boost Too High For Too Long. This code is a soft code and will go away after a few start cycles and it will not put the truck into limp mode or anything like that.
So, what we need to do is add the resistor, to tell the ECM that we are getting ALMOST full boost and this prevents the CEL from coming on. This is where the 10 or 33 ohm resistor comes into play. The lower the ohm number, the higher the boost signal that the ECM see's. If the 10 still trips the CEL, put the 33 ohm in there.
It needs to get wired into either one of the wires the are running to the switch, it doesn't matter which one you use.
Once these connections are made and you hit the switch, the truck will dump full fuel at low boost and you can turn day into night on command.
Just be careful using it and watch your EGT's, as they will come up quickly.
Again, you MUST have a boost fooling device to do this, otherwise the truck just defuels and it defeats the purpose.
Enjoy!