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Author Topic: dynatrac free spin hub conversion  (Read 14803 times)

Offline sanddragonslayer

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dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« on: February 17, 2009, 09:36:58 am »
Give me a break, this is my first DIY

So here we go. When I received the boxes I did a through inspection to make sure that I had all the parts that I was supposed to. (duh)

I started by pressing the new studs into the new hubs, make sure that there all the way in!!!


The instructions say that you need to put both sides on jack stands and remove the tires. Then it tells you to remove the front diff cover and drain oil. I decided to cheat, and just do one side at a time. My thought was that if one side is in the air and the other is on the ground, then no oil will leak out. ( it worked)



 Once you’ve got the tire off you can remove the cotter pin that keeps the big ass nut from backing off, this is a 1 11/16” and you’ll need a socket to get it off. I didn’t have one so I machined one out of steel, (don’t attempt this just go get the socket) I had my buddy stand on the brakes when I broke it loose.



Then you can remove the brake assembly I wasn’t paying close enough attention and removed the caliper and then the mount. (it’ll come of all in one) I used a zip tie to hold the caliper to the control arm. Next is the abs sensor remove and fish it through the dust shield and put it with the caliper. After you’ve got that out of the way, move on to the unit bearing bolts. They are locate on the backside of the hub and are 14mm. Use a good wrench for this step, because if you round these off, I’m not sure how you would get them out. There are four and they are very tight. Some muscle and a little wiggling and the unit bearing/hub/boat anchor will come out. Then remove the axle, it is only held in by suction. And then head for the bench!!!

Now be sure to remove the clips that retain the bearing cups on the u-joints.( once again I wasn’t paying close enough attention and broke a u-joint with the 20 ton press) now if you didn’t already learn from my mistake, head for the parts store and pick up a new one $100 and your back in business.



When you are installing the new outer shafts be sure to use the supplied shim kits between the clips and the inside of the outer shafts ( does that make any sense)



Now we reinstall the axles just slide it in and it will bottom out and be happy, now its time to install the mystery dust boot seal that is not explained in the directions!! Just press them onto the outer shafts with the larger cup facing outward.

Congrats we are halfway through side one!!!

In the new spindle there is a needle bearing that needs to be greased before installation, and make sure to reuse the big metal dust/splash shield and then the spindle. Reuse the stock bolts that used to hold the unit bearing, be sure to use plenty of red locktite and then torque to 65 foot pounds. Then reinstall the abs sensor and check for clearance.



Time to pack the new bearings, make sure that you take your time and do it right!!
Flip the new hub over so that the studs are on the table and drop the large bearing in, followed by the seal.( tap it in lightly) then slide the new hub onto the spindle and fill the void with grease and install the outer bearing and first locknut. In my kit it had nuts with six points (I think they are gm, got my socket at napa) torque nut to 60 foot pounds, and then loosen an1/8 turn install lock washer and outer nut. Torque outer nut to 70 foot pounds and then bend a tab or two to lock it down.

Installing the WARN hubs is pretty straight forward. Just slip the hub centers in, and then there is a larger spiral lock to hold the outer and a small snap ring to hold the inner. Then slide the outer hub on and use the 6 allen bolts to keep everything together.

Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper, I used red locktight on the main caliper bracket bolts and torqued them to 65 foot pounds.

Slam that wheel back on and head to the other side!!!!!  Driver’s side done!!!!

Repeat for passenger side. I trimmed my stock caps so that I could reuse them, if you decide to do this just go slow and make it nice, it’ll be worth it in the end.






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Offline Cumminalong

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2009, 01:19:24 pm »
DAMN!

Nice job on the DIY brother!

Offline Cujo

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2009, 01:57:30 pm »
Awesome. How many spline is it and what did the kit cost?
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab SWB
5.9L I6 Cummins Diesel/4 speed auto, Big Horn Edition
Westin Oval tubes, MBRP exhaust, AFE CAI, DiPricol Gauges,
Smarty, Line-x, Dynatrac Free Spin Hubs

Offline BigRiver

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2009, 02:28:05 pm »
Good job Dragon........ya made it look easy. :up:

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Offline Methos

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2009, 02:42:29 pm »
Nice write up!  Well done.

See any kind of improvements with it?


Offline Kilch123

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2009, 03:23:09 pm »
Good job on the write-up

Thanks for the info!
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Offline sanddragonslayer

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2009, 04:33:39 pm »
Actually the preliminary driving around town testing has given me 2 more mpg!!! I used to always drive around with the lie-o-meter showing 11.2 and now its showing 13.4 constantly. It is a 35 spline kit, and it cost $1989.95 and it was $100 to ship it. It's worth it to me to have real wheel bearings, and im no longer wearing out all those extra parts.
95 12v 4x4 auto K&N drop in. 4 inch turbo back MBRP exhaust, Garmon trans, 4k gsk, 140 injectors, fully modded afc, pump timed, delivery valves, custom ground fuel plate, Phatshaft 62. And a very large list of to do's.

Offline mayfair

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2009, 08:13:21 pm »
AWESOME !!! :punk:

I'm curious about all of the use of the red loctite though. Did the instructions call for it, or is that something that you just did on your own? I'd be a little leery of useing red loctite on those hub bolts, especially if they were that difficult to come out the first time.

Offline sanddragonslayer

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2009, 09:23:20 pm »
the instructions called for locktite. and i only use a little!!! less than a drop on each.
95 12v 4x4 auto K&N drop in. 4 inch turbo back MBRP exhaust, Garmon trans, 4k gsk, 140 injectors, fully modded afc, pump timed, delivery valves, custom ground fuel plate, Phatshaft 62. And a very large list of to do's.

Offline Parts/Service

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2009, 02:21:58 am »
Damn good DIY

Offline noplugs

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2009, 02:48:55 am »
NICE job. Makes me want some for my truck.
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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2009, 04:12:02 am »
I want them too, because I keep my truck for a long time so it would pay off in fuel and bearing price

Offline NickBeek

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #12 on: June 08, 2009, 04:14:38 am »
Nice job on the write up.

You are gonna be sorry you used RED loctite, that stuff is a real PITA. It is supposed to be permanent. :)
2014 Ram 2500 Laramie, 4x4, 3.42 gears. Auto Trans, Crew cab, long bed. Window Visors, trifold bed cover.




Offline AeroRam

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #13 on: June 08, 2009, 04:22:07 am »
Nice write up, I've been wanting some but figured I'd wait till a few guys tried them out first!


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Offline sanddragonslayer

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Re: dynatrac free spin hub conversion
« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2009, 05:45:50 am »
well ive put over 10,000 miles on them without any problems, I am very satisfied.
95 12v 4x4 auto K&N drop in. 4 inch turbo back MBRP exhaust, Garmon trans, 4k gsk, 140 injectors, fully modded afc, pump timed, delivery valves, custom ground fuel plate, Phatshaft 62. And a very large list of to do's.

 

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