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Author Topic: Getting high(er)  (Read 2615 times)

Offline patracy

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Getting high(er)
« on: June 27, 2009, 10:39:59 pm »
I already had 2" spacers under the front of my truck.  But the 37"s I have rub every once in a while.  So I traded my 2" for a set of 3" from another cummins owner.  You can use this sort of a guide to see if you want to try to lift your truck.

Tools needed:
18mm 6 point socket shallow well 1/2 drive
18mm socket deep well 3/8 drive
3/8 drive wobble extension
1/2 drive wratchet
3/8 drive wratchet
9/16 or 14mm socket
large prybar
tie rod removal tool
hammer
jack
jackstands
grease gun
needle nose pliers
coil spring compressors (I just borrowed a set from autozone)

Parts:
locktight
coil spring spacers
Track bar (I picked up an adjustable one since I was lifting mine higher.  If your track bar is ok, you can run 2" spacers without adjustment.)

First and foremost, set the parking brake on the truck.  Next chock the rear wheels.  We want the truck as stable as possible.  Doing this will prevent the truck from being able to roll back and forth.  Very important to do this!

Once all your parts are gathered along with your tools.  Have them lined up and ready to go.  Here I have a set of 3" pro-comp spacers and an aftermarket adjustable track bar.


First of all, jack the frame of the vehicle up.  I used the mount on the frame where the lower control arms connect to.  (Not the arm, but the frame)  You want to get the weight off the front end.  Only raise it enough for the tires to be a few inches off the ground.  If you raise it too high, you could possibly damage your brake/vac/wires when the axle drops.

Once I had the front end supported I removed the bolts holding the top shock mount.  Mine were 14mm or 9/16" nuts.  Start with the driver's side first as it's the most difficult due to all the wiring and such in the way.  It's a wise idea to cover your battery terminal as well on the battery since you're working close to it.


Once I had the bolts removed from that, I removed the lower bolt to the shock.  I believe that lower bolt was a 18mm bolt.  Then I pulled the entire assembly out.  (It's easier to me to get that pesky top nut off on the bench instead of the shock spinning in the frame)


I had a set of low mile take offs from a 07 pickup that were given to me.  They work fine, and are about 1/4" longer than the second gens.  I also snagged the bottom washer from my shock to space the shock down about 1/4" more down the hole by having two of the base washers double stacked.


With the shocks out of the way, you can remove the coils.  Mine easily came out with a little nudge from the prybar.  On a stocker they should just fall out.


Now for the fun part.  Getting the springs to fit back in.  This is where those spring compressors come in handy.  I compressed them down as safe as I felt cranking them down.  Then I installed the spacer in place using the bolts to located it for the time being.  Make sure you reinstall the rubber isolater as well!


Once you have everything lined up and in place, start taking the load off on the compressors allowing the spring to extend back in place.  Make sure you're alligned back into the spring pockets while you're doing this. 


I dropped the repalcement shock back in place and secured the mount back down.


I repeated this process over on the other side as well.


On to the track bar.  This is only applicable if you're replacing yours or running a higher lift than 2".  First off, remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the frame.  (21mm deep socket)  Then pry it back out with the tie bar tool.  You could prob also get someone in the truck and rack the steering back and forth and help pry it out that way as well.



Next move on to the axle bolt.  This bolt was a pain to deal with.  Make sure you use a 18mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket.  It is torqued down hard and locktight'ed in place.  You do NOT want to round this bolt!



I ran out the bushing end of the track bar till I had about 1.5" in the body.  Since the track bar isn't a straight line, you kinda have to know how long you need to start with.  I compaired it to the stocker making sure to leave the adjustment on the side more easily adjusted at the ball joint.


I installed the bushing end back into the axle and use the 1/2" drive spacer over the axle and tie rod to help keep it angled back up.  I torqued the heck out of that bolt again and added a drop of threadlock on it.  Loosing one of these bolts could spell disaster while driving, do it right! Once you get everything lined in place the ball joint is ready to reinstall.  Some people like to use ratchet straps to get it back in the hole.  I just had my wife rack the steering to shift the front end and popped it in place.  Then tighten it back down with the castle nut and install a new cotter pin. 



Then I greased the new ball joint (and the others) and decided to take a drive.  On the test drive I hit a bump and had a death wobble.  I was furious.  I thought something else was wrong with the truck.  Crawled under it and saw nothing wrong.  So I came back home and opened the hood.   :argh:  It helps to reinstall the shock bolts on the top!  Always double check your work.  I feel like an idiot for not running back over everything.  Susp. work is not something you want to gamble on!

I also noted my steering wheel position is a little off.  So tonight when it cools a little.  I'll extend the section of drag link to center the wheel back.
Hers- 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with some stuff
Mine- 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  Stock, cuz it's got a warranty!
        1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9CTD with a LOT of stuff
        1987 Suzuki Samurai...with stuff that doesn't even belong in it!

Offline FroneDaddy

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Re: Getting high(er)
« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2009, 01:57:54 pm »
I'll extend the section of drag link to center the wheel back.

Can you just un-thread the drag link end to make it longer?
I'm An and I Drive A

Offline patracy

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Re: Getting high(er)
« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2009, 06:54:33 pm »
I'll extend the section of drag link to center the wheel back.

Can you just un-thread the drag link end to make it longer?

Yup, that's all it takes, just loosen the three clamps (5/8ths I think it was) then take a pair of vice grips and turn the sleeve to extend it.
Hers- 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with some stuff
Mine- 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  Stock, cuz it's got a warranty!
        1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9CTD with a LOT of stuff
        1987 Suzuki Samurai...with stuff that doesn't even belong in it!

Offline patracy

  • Shade Tree Certified
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    HPShade TreeHigh Mile
Re: Getting high(er)
« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2009, 06:55:14 pm »
And tighten back down of course!
Hers- 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with some stuff
Mine- 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.  Stock, cuz it's got a warranty!
        1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9CTD with a LOT of stuff
        1987 Suzuki Samurai...with stuff that doesn't even belong in it!

 

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