Addition to dynatrac freespin hub conversion

[REDR6]

Danny did a really good one here

http://www.dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=5222.0

Since I'm not a mechanic, I had different problems that he didn't mention. So I'm just going to try to add to his a little.

Let me start by saying that I did this at the auto hobby shop on base that has all kinds of tools. If you don't have a full shop worth of stuff, this is going to be pretty hard. You need a 1 11/16" socket, a torque wrench, a 12 point metric sockets (they come in just about any regular tool kit), allen keys, a spanner socket (I couldn't find a size on it), a ball joint press, a vise, and a BUNCH of grease. I mean a bunch...

Step 1
Inspect everything, make sure that you have everything. Try to test fit as much of it as you can to make sure it is all going together.

Step 2
Press the new studs into the outer hub. I used a vise, ball joint press and air gun. Make sure they are ALL the way in and don't just try to pull them through with a nut.

[REDR6]

Step 3
Take that big freakin bolt off. It's the one that SHOULD have a pin through the middle of it and it is right in the middle of the spinny thing with the studs.

Step 4
Take the wheel and brakes off. Zip tie the caliper out of the way. This is where you will need one of those 12 point sockets. If you have an 00-02, the rotor just pulls right off.

[REDR6]

Step 5

Remove the ABS sensor. It is on the top of the hub behind the spinny guy with the studs in it. Make sure to secure it out of the way so that you don't accidentally crush it or rip it off.

[REDR6]

Step 6

Remove the hub bolts. There are 4 and they are on the back side. You need another 12 point socket for this. Don't round them off or break them because you will use them again. When you do this, try not to mangle the brake dust shields too badly. I didn't put mine back on because I kinda sorta destroyed them... Try spraying some PB Blaster in and around the hub/big metal thing it is bolted to area to make this whole process easier.

[REDR6]

Step 7
Pull the axle shaft out while being careful not to bang it around or damage the seal inside the axle.

[REDR6]

Step 8
This is a great time to install new u-joints. Here you install the u-joint between the new longer 35 spline shaft to the inner side of the axle shaft.

[REDR6]

Step 9
Reinsert the axle shaft into the axle. Put some grease around the shiny, perfectly round part to help make a seal. Make sure to do it gently so you don't damage the seal. On the passenger side, some years have the axle disconnect so that will require some extra shimmying.

Step 10
Install the new inner hub. Grease the little pin looking things on the inside. They should already have a little blue/grey grease on them, but add a little more. Also put some grease on the smaller black rubber dust shield and slide it on the flatter side of the new hub. (the side that goes toward the axle) There is a block on the top where the ABS sensor goes. Just line up the holes and slide it on. Do it gently though so you don't damage the seal. (recurring theme?)

[REDR6]

I stopped taking pictures at this point because I was covered in grease, and frustrated.

Step 11
There are metal circles with little wheel guys in them. THESE are wheel bearings. They need a lot of grease. They go inside the thing in this picture. I used a grease gun and a wheel bearing greaser. You can also do it by hand. I put the bearing on the greaser and then hand packed grease in the middle so that I wouldn't have to use as much grease from the gun. Just keep pumping that thing until you see stuff come out the bottom. After that, I added a bit more grease to the top and bottom, and all around the outside and inside. Then I installed it in the back side of the outer hub. From there you fill the orange dust seal with grease and tap it down on top of that bearing with a hammer.

Next take the smaller wheel bearing and do the same thing. It goes in the other side of the outer hub. I had to flip the outer hub on its side and hold the smaller bearing in for the next step.

There is a gap between the two bearings. It needs to be full of grease. This takes a LOT of grease. It only needs to be full up to the inner diameter of the two bearings, but that is still a lot of freaking grease.

[REDR6]

Step 12
Install the outer hub on to the inner hub. I had to hold that smaller/outer wheel bearing in place for this process. Once you get it on there, there are two spanner nuts with a lock washer in between. Install the first to the torque that is says and then back it off 1/8 of a turn. The hubs should spin pretty freely. Then line up the notch on the washer with the notch on top of the inner hub. Put the second spanner nut on and torque it down to the higher torque setting. If one of the tabs does not line up, back it off barely until it does. Bend that tab down to lock it in place. WOO HOO! ALMOST DONE!

Step 13
Grab the box with the Warn or Dynaloc tops. I had the Warn so that is what I will describe. The directions kinda sucked. They are very general and are not vehicle or Dodge specific. There is a round metal thing that looks like gears and stuff. It has a screw on top that holds a spring loaded gear thing on the inside. Slide that little guy on the outer axle shaft inside the outer hub. (When you see it, you'll know what I'm talking about) On the end of the outer axle shaft, there is a ring cut into it. This is where the snap ring goes that holds that little gear guy on. Like I said before, there is a small silver phillips head  screw holding that spring loaded gear down. Take that screw off, and remove that gear and spring. Put the snap ring on, then put that spring/gear/screw back on. After that, a large locking ring goes on the inner diameter of the outer hub.

Step 14
Grab the large rubber o-ring and put that on the back of the silver faceplate. Take the allen screws and put the tiny rubber o-rings on them and then use them to attach the outer face plate with the switch. Hard part done! Make sure that the face plate is tight and does not move in and out. If it does, realign it and reattach it. work the switch back and forth a few times and test it out. On mine, the hub has to go backward like 1/64th of a turn to release the axle. Do that a few times just to make sure everything is working right. 

Step 15
Put the abs sensor back on, rotors and calipers, and then the wheel. DONE!

Step 16
In a few days or a couple hundred miles, jack it back up and check the play in the hub. push it back and forth and then up and down. It shouldn't move. If is does, stop driving it and Call George over at 8-Lug Truck gear. THEN re-torque your lug nuts because you just installed those hubs and they may have pulled through a tiny bit more.

Then have fun. 

[REDR6]

I have 305/70/16's and they don't stick out the side. I'm pretty happy with them so far. I'll get you the hard mpg numbers when I fill up, but the lie-o-meter seems to like them a lot. 

This cost me close to 10 hours, much frustration, several thousand brain cells (due to smashing my head on many parts of the truck), my curse word alottment for the next quarter, and my rotor splash guards. This was WAY harder than I thought. I would recommend thinking twice if you aren't really mechanically minded.

This is my first one of these ever, so I'm sure I forgot some stuff, but I'll add it if I remember it.

[Cujo]

Fun aren't they? 

Nice write up. 

[bigwill423]

seems fun haha

im about to replace my Ujoints between the inner/outer axles..

i hope it doesnt turn out being harder than i think it is.

thanks for the write up RedR6.. nice work!

[mayfair]

Thanks for sharing the link!
You're is a newer version with the pull off rotors, whereas mine is a 98 where you have to take the hubs apart to get to the rotor.

[Austin The DieselTech]

Good write up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I am interested in the MPG gains that you see.

[REDR6]

Realistically, there were a lot of changes done in a short period of time. I can give you a total over mpg... (well after I stop driving like an asshole... I'm just having so much fun with these injectors and turbo!)