Dodge Owner Forums
Dodge Trucks => DIY & Self Help => Cummins DIY's => Topic started by: 04cumminsram on December 14, 2009, 06:06:00 am
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OK, I have a customer that had a problem of oil consumption and slight loss of power... 2006 Cummins with 80k pretty much stock other that a edge juice with attitude.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12172310.jpg)
Truck had serious blowby issues so i told him he more than likely had a broken ring, He got the money together and came to the shop and 830 am saturday morning, the truck on a trailer so by 9am im elbow deep in this venture...
well i started to take some pics of the job and there are DIy's on here to remove injectors
http://www.dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=2461.0 (http://www.dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=2461.0)
after you get the valve cover off and coolant and oil drained your ready to rock
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12102631.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12102612.jpg)
Remove the 26 head bolts, disconnect the Downpipe and Injector Rail feed line on drivers side along with wiring harness's. The Injector return line is on the rear of the head i have no pic to show it because you can barely get your hand and a 3/4 wrench back there let alone the Droid to get a pic...sorry
I pulled the head with the turbo and manifold still on, easier this way in my opinion... you should end up with something like this
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12142241.jpg)
now you loosen the motor mounts and pic the engine up as high as you can get it, almost 4 inches you have to go to remove the Oil pan. then you will see this
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12142311.jpg)
You have to remove the oil pickup and block stiffner plate and you will see this
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12172427.jpg)
Now you can remove the rods and pistons, I barred the engine over till each one was at the bottom to make it easier to get to the bolts, and then push the pistons up through the top. You may find yourself having issues getting them out, so push them back down and hone the top of the cylinder a minimal amount to remove any debris at the top of the cylinders
when you get the pistons out it should look like this
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12172349.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12172320.jpg)
Now is the time to Remind yourself CLEANLINESS IS THE KEY... Take your time and clean everything
I used my expanding hone to clean the cylinder walls up then sprayed everything down with solvent and blew dry then repeated
now with everything out you can inspect everything and this is what i found
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12151111.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12151119.jpg)
Number 1 and 6 the top rings were cracked, luckily the cylinder walls were not tore up so a mimimal amount of honing was performed... Before Honing remove the bottom oilers that shoot up into the bottom of the pistons...
now clean all of the components
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12172254.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12172301.jpg)
install new rings and upper and lower bearings REMEMBER never touch the bearing surface that will contact the crank, i wear gloves and use some kind of assembly lube when putting all back together.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12181343.jpg)
now put pistons back in the same hole they came out of
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12204412.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/2009-12-12204421.jpg)
torque the rods to spec
I also removed 3 of the main caps to make sure the mains were not bad, and reinstalled and retorqed the caps.
now you reinstall the head and hook it all back up
sorry for such few pics, there are more here http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/ (http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/04cumminsram/in%20frame/)
but it ran at 145am sunday morning... ! :up:
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Awesome Man. I'd never try it myself, but its always cool to see the stuff inside you never get to see.
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Well Damn, someone was busy this weekend. Nice job. Any idea why the rings cracked?
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im gonna say heat did it, its ran like this since he bought it, its his first Cummins...
also did a CP3 on a 6.7l and gauges Friday night...lol
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:eek: Damn good time on that :up:. He's still under his diesel warranty though, why didn't he take it too the dealer?
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:eek: Damn good time on that :up:. He's still under his diesel warranty though, why didn't he take it too the dealer?
Well the dealers around here blow large donkey balls... They never looked at the truck when he bought it and it was 1.5 gal low on oil and had the edge and a k&n drop in filter... they told him that his warranty was void because of the edge... The dealer installed it for the previous owner, they told him to put a stock air cleaner in and run it for a month and they would take pics blah blah blah and then after that they told him to get bent because it had a "chip" on it...lol oh well
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Yeah, some dealers really blow and give us all a bad name :banging:
Oh well, at least he got it fixed :up:
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Good Job Adam!
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thank you sir !
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Wow, that's impressive, good job man. That is some dedication to get it done in one day. I would have figured it would be a min 2 day job.
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thanks... it would have went quicker but i spent a couple hours searching for a part and then had to eat and things but yea i was impressed
One of the tech's how long does this take Book Time? ::?:
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Book time = 14.3 hours
For all rings, hone cylinder walls and replace rod bearings.
:cheers:
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nice job adam
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Nice work, and doing it in a little more than 16 hours including stopping to eat and keeping things clean is great work. Now the question, was that your first time that deep into one of these motors? If so that is even more impressive...
I have rebuilt gas motors in a weekend before but that included 1/2 a day for removal and reinstall, never while it was in the vehicle, my hat's off to you on that one...
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thanks for the write up !! :cheers:
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Nice work, and doing it in a little more than 16 hours including stopping to eat and keeping things clean is great work. Now the question, was that your first time that deep into one of these motors? If so that is even more impressive...
I have rebuilt gas motors in a weekend before but that included 1/2 a day for removal and reinstall, never while it was in the vehicle, my hat's off to you on that one...
no this wasnt my first time, I built the motor in my truck also... although this is the first time for a in frame overhaul
mine started on a couple pallets and a few boxes, at school it took 2 days 7am to 5pm
My School is Wyotech...lol
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Great write up.!!!!!! Lets see ya do one that fast on a 3406E.
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Very impressive. Lets hope that none of us ever need to see it in person...
Unless it is a planned upgrade :devil2:
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Thanks Rob...
We had 2ndDodges 6.7 out and tore down in less than 4 hours...will take pics of the rebuild though
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How do you get the last 3 push rods out? Or do they come out with the head?
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How do you get the last 3 push rods out? Or do they come out with the head?
when you take the heat resistant fiber from under the cowl you will find two large rubber plugs that you can remove..
These two holes let you move the pushrods up into the cowl are and out of the block.. its give you 6+ more inches of room to maneuver them out.
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I realize this is an old tread but I was wondering how you kept the crankshaft and all that clean when you honed the cylinders?? I'm doing this to mine now I had a cracked piston and don't want to pull the whole motor. I know keeping everything clean is my #1 concern.