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Author Topic: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.  (Read 2955 times)

Offline wyomincowboy

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Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« on: April 07, 2011, 10:00:37 pm »
I just got my truck back from the off road shop where they were supposed to do an alignment after i install my leveling kit, they told me both my front wheel bearings are going out and that my axel seals are leaking bad enough to be replaced.   I got a parts quote and a parts and install quote, theres about a 600 difference between the 2.  :banging:  I am gonna do them myself at the base hobby shop.  Anybody got any tips, pointers or experience with doing wither one of them.  I got a chiltons manual, which i have used alot to work on my truck, but I know theres little tips and tricks that are in the book.    Any help would be much appreciated.
"Be Good or Be Dam Good At It" - My old Division Officer told me this before every liberty port.
03 2500 Laramie Sport. Hemi mated to a NV4500 5 spd.  K&N Intake, 10mm Shorty Plug Wires, Diablosport Predator Tune, True dual 3in exhaust with high flow cats and 20in Glasspaks.

Offline Cumminalong

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Re: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2011, 04:33:46 pm »
Axles seals on the front or back?....

The bearings are one thing, but the axles seals on the AAM 9.25 are inside the diff housing, not at the end of the axle tubes.

Unless you're comfortable with gears, you might want to reconsider.

If it's the rear axle, it's no big deal.

Offline Batman

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Re: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2011, 06:03:45 pm »
Ah, man, don't scare him off the job yet.  I haven't done one of the AAM axles yet, but I'm guessing they're similar to my Dana, I know they don't have the CAD, but the D-side seal on the Dana is behind the dif carrier.  I did seals in my Dana, books and everything say you need a spreader to remove the carrier, but you really don't.  As long as you aren't replacing carrier bearings and such there isn't any need to worry about the setup stuff, just mark the bearing caps and don't get them mixed up so that everything goes back just the way it came out.  Carrier just prys out with a little bitty pry bar, then goes back in with a couple whacks from a soft dead blow.  For installing the seals just go slow and get them seated nice and even.  Since you're in there so far might want to go ahead and do the axle u-joints, too.  It was only $15 or so each for the U-joints and only added 30 or 45min. to the total job anyway.  Other advice, if your front end hasn't been apart before a couple days before you want to do the work start soaking all the bolts up there down with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster.
Big Truck: 98.5 24-valve CTD, 4x4, Auto, Quad-cab, Shortbed (Sold!  I will be finding another truck, this time it'll be a 12-valve with a 5-speed!)
Wife's Car: 2012 Charger 3.5L SXT Silver
My Car: 1996 BMW 328i convertible, 5-speed, Black
Little Truck: 1972 GMC K1500 V-eight, 4x4, Auto, Shortbed
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Offline Cumminalong

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Re: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2011, 07:46:47 pm »
Ah, man, don't scare him off the job yet. 

Sheeeeeit......

Most folks are scared to even pop the diff cover off to change the fluid, let along pull the carrier and bearings out.....

:lol:

Offline wyomincowboy

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Re: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2011, 12:16:32 am »
trust me i aint scared.    Its the front axle, i know the seals are next to the pumkin, just wondering if anyone had done em before.  I got a couple of buds who have done the bearings before, but not the seals.   
"Be Good or Be Dam Good At It" - My old Division Officer told me this before every liberty port.
03 2500 Laramie Sport. Hemi mated to a NV4500 5 spd.  K&N Intake, 10mm Shorty Plug Wires, Diablosport Predator Tune, True dual 3in exhaust with high flow cats and 20in Glasspaks.

Offline Batman

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Re: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2011, 12:25:38 am »
I haven't done them on the AAM axles, but I have done my old Dana.  It can't be much different than doing 2 of the Driver-side seals on the Dana axles.  I can't believe your buddies did the bearings without doing the seals, too.  In my experience when bearings or other axle work needs to be done the seals are old and dry enough that once you button everything back up they will leak in a day or two because old dry seals get scored when you put the axles back in.  For the few bucks that each seal costs I just plan on replacing them any time I have to go far enough to take the axles out, which luckily isn't very often.  When you pry the carrier out just make sure to pry on one of the bolt heads holding the ring to the carrier, not one of the gear teeth.  Then just keep everything clean and don't mix up the caps and races while they're out.  That's about the only pointers I've got.  It's a fun job!
Big Truck: 98.5 24-valve CTD, 4x4, Auto, Quad-cab, Shortbed (Sold!  I will be finding another truck, this time it'll be a 12-valve with a 5-speed!)
Wife's Car: 2012 Charger 3.5L SXT Silver
My Car: 1996 BMW 328i convertible, 5-speed, Black
Little Truck: 1972 GMC K1500 V-eight, 4x4, Auto, Shortbed
Mileage maker: 1995 Maxima, 5-spd, Black
Wifey's Car: 2012 Charger SXT, Silver, V6

Offline wyomincowboy

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Re: Wheel Bearings and axel seals.
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2011, 02:45:44 am »
well after 26 hours, i'm done.   I replaced both front wheel bearing hub assemblies, front U-joints, and the inner axle seals.   The U-joints were the biggest pain in the ass outa the whole deal.  Bent the yokes a little as i was trying to get the joint pressed out, had to bend the yokes back straight.   

All in all it was a fun time.  Now i need some whiskey, lots of whiskey.
"Be Good or Be Dam Good At It" - My old Division Officer told me this before every liberty port.
03 2500 Laramie Sport. Hemi mated to a NV4500 5 spd.  K&N Intake, 10mm Shorty Plug Wires, Diablosport Predator Tune, True dual 3in exhaust with high flow cats and 20in Glasspaks.

 

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