Antifreeze Smell in cab @ WOT

[pctgreg]

As the title says...   today I was trying to merge on the bypass, and a car wouldn't let me over.  The guy was being a tool, so I floored it so I could get past him and merge.   Even then, he insisted on speeding up to make it more difficult for me to get over.  I was doing 82 when I finally merged (An amazing feat for my truck jk).  I thought I was starting to smell that sweet smell of victory... but it was more like the sweet smell of coolant 

Truck still drives and sounds the same.  No coolant smell under the hood, and no visable leaks.  No overheating (truck always runs cooler than normal trucks anyway).  No coolant in oil, and no smoke from exhaust that I could notice.   I kicked it down on my way back home twice just to make sure it was a fluke,  but it wasn't and I do indeed still get the smell with the rpms in the WOT range.  Another key piece is the timing of the smell.  It isn't instantaneous, but rather delayed about 10 seconds or so???  Also obviously depends on how long I am into it = strength of smell.  My heater wasn't on so maybe that could be the delay?  Because I am really leaning towards heater core.  Then again, the bad "cat" smell sometimes drifts in the cab with the windows shut too after getting on it (I have a high flow cat), so who knows...

Not sure whether to try and bypass the heater core while it is still somewhat warm today and test...   or just replace it.  I have ~134 k on the truck.  Just called dodge to see what a replacement through them would run, and it is $141 and have to wait till Monday.  Autozone has it for half that, and on the shelf.  Either way I would have to run down to autozone for extra hose, or for the heater core.

[carpenter]

I changed mine about a month ago and put one in from dodge because I couldn't find a heater core that didnt have the swivel line on them. I wanted a heater core with the solid lines on it. The ones with the swivel line seem week to me, but they may last as long as the others I don't know. That is one job I hope I don't have to do for another 125k miles. Hope this helps you out, and good luck.

[JetNoise]

My vote is the heater core, too.  If you have a bit of a leak in there, the higher flow and pressure would find it and escape.

[Mitch]

That is most definitely your heater core. Pull your carpet back on the passenger floor board. Look for the wet spot. 

[pctgreg]

That is most definitely your heater core. Pull your carpet back on the passenger floor board. Look for the wet spot.

No wet spot, I have the vinyl floor anyway so I certainly would notice.  Just wanted to update that i did pick up a core and hoses today.  This weekend should be nice and warm, so I'll try to tackle it now.

[pctgreg]

I changed mine about a month ago and put one in from dodge because I couldn't find a heater core that didnt have the swivel line on them. I wanted a heater core with the solid lines on it. The ones with the swivel line seem week to me, but they may last as long as the others I don't know. That is one job I hope I don't have to do for another 125k miles. Hope this helps you out, and good luck.

Did you pull the whole box with yours and disconnect the AC lines?  I am hoping to attempt to do it without disconnecting the AC.

[carpenter]

When I done mine I left the box in the truck, just take the five nuts loose on the outside in the engine compartment and pull the box out from the firewall. there should be just enough room to slide the old core out and the new one in. Mine wasnt leaking in the floor either pretty much just enough to smell most of the time. Hope this helps you out.

[pctgreg]

I was expecting much worse with the heater core replacement... but all in all it wasn't as bad as I expected.  It was a 7hr job taking my time, an hour of it being a parts run for a second core lol.  Like you carpenter, after reading many threads on heater cores... most preferred the non-swivel because it is viewed as another failure point.  I never did run across a thread where one failed.  So the other day I did pick up the non-swivel style.  Well... I unbolted the heater box (4 outside / 2 inside).  I wanted to keep the AC intact, so I only had a few inches to play with before the AC clip hits the firewall.  I figured I might be able to bend the heater core lines temporarily to get them in place... but it certainly was a no go.  I was bending ahead of the solder joint, but that solder joint is so weak the slightest bit of extra movement caused the line to move in the core.  I questioned if by doing this, did i just create a pinhole leak?  I cut my losses and  I went out and bought the swivel style.  Man am I glad I did.  Turned both pipes straight down to get under the inside ledge in the truck.  push the core in and swing the lines to the left.  Damn was I happy   Put everything back together, and she is all good to go now

My stock core was indeed starting to leak.  It was almost in the middle of the core, there was some green staining and a touch of corrosion on both sides of the core in the same spot.

I apologize that I don't have many pic's...  but my phone died.  I told my brother to snap a few pic's with his cell when he came around, so i'll have to get them from him tomorrow.  Only one I have is with my dash pulled enough to get to the core.



ALMOST FORGOT!!!  Carpenter, what was your secret for the heater core screw closest to the firewall.  Shit I fought with that thing for at least a half hour trying to use all kinds of stuff.  Stubby won't fit.  1/4 ratchet with mag bit holder and bit is too large.  I was afraid i'd drop the 1/4 wrench and bit, so I scrapped that idea.  Ended up using a flexible screwdriver, but even that was a PITA since that is too large too.

[Mitch]

 Good job Greg 

[pctgreg]

I got the rest of the pic's this morning.  The pic I posted earlier was with the old core, you can see the brass pipes off of it.

For future reference, here is a picture of the two styles of heater cores both made by Spectra.  Both are interchangeable within our 2nd gen years.

Solid line 94736
Swivel Line 94466



Here is with the new swivel core installed.  The core drops straight in with some pressure, and being able to twist those lines was awesome.  I still needed to unbolt the box to get those couple inches to get it in, but that is all I needed.  I cut the old core lines out with my dremel which is why there are gold metal shavings in the pic.  I vac'd them up before putting the dash back.




Here is a top view.  Like I said with that ledge, and even bending the solid lines, I was no where close to being able to get those solid lines in.

[RoaminGnome]

Is that what I was interupting

That doesnt look nearly as bad as the dakotas, those look like a NIGHTMARE

[carpenter]

I dont know if I have a secret I used a plain ole wrench, best i recall mine didnt have any screws holding the box just bolts from inside the cab out. I think mine had 5 nuts in the engine well, but i could be mistaken i have slept since then. My a/c lines must be alittle longer than yours because I put a solid line core in with everything still hooked up. The only difference I see is my truck has the dash before that one and I replaced the dash top (was my pain in the rear) while I was changing the core. When I got mine out I was wondering if it was ever going to run again, long day the lest. Oh just about forgot, I had a buddy to help me with mine. Glad to see it turned out alright for you, and let us know how long that swival core last so we can compare them to the solid lined cores.

[pctgreg]

Is that what I was interupting

That doesnt look nearly as bad as the dakotas, those look like a NIGHTMARE

Lol nope this was done yesterday.  Last weekend when you texted i was working on the vette.  Pulled the points distributor and dropped in an HEI dizzy.  The aircleaner wouldnt fit so i turned the dizzy 1/8 rotation, and swapped the wires back one position so the HEI power block isn't in the way.  Re-timed it.  Ran the switched power wire to it.  Already had 8mm wires but the dizzy connectors are different.  I had spare plug connectors from another set of wires i made.  I cut the ends off and crimped the right ends on for now till we can get a proper set.  Lol thats what i was doing when you texted.  Busy weekend

[RoaminGnome]

lol oh was that it?

[pctgreg]

I dont know if I have a secret I used a plain ole wrench, best i recall mine didnt have any screws holding the box just bolts from inside the cab out. I think mine had 5 nuts in the engine well, but i could be mistaken i have slept since then. My a/c lines must be alittle longer than yours because I put a solid line core in with everything still hooked up. The only difference I see is my truck has the dash before that one and I replaced the dash top (was my pain in the rear) while I was changing the core. When I got mine out I was wondering if it was ever going to run again, long day the lest. Oh just about forgot, I had a buddy to help me with mine. Glad to see it turned out alright for you, and let us know how long that swival core last so we can compare them to the solid lined cores.

Yeah I was referring to the screws that physically hold the heater core in (those metal clasps)  The closest one had 2 Philips screws, and the one that gave me trouble was the one closest to the firewall which only had one screw.

Yeah the dash was a chore for me as well.  I pulled mine from a JY, and it will be 2 years this January that I swapped it in.  It used to look like this hahaha



And i'll be sure to update you if something happens with this core.  I don't foresee an issue, but as I looked again I am glad that the flex joints are out of the way of the box.  If they do leak, it won't be able to go into the core slot, it will be forced to trickle around the heater box and directly on the floor.