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Author Topic: Replacing Front Brakes and Rotors on a 2nd Gen Dodge Ram 2500-3500  (Read 5220 times)

Offline lilfroger

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This is Kilch123's DIY posted October 24th; somehow the thread got messed up and I don't want to loose the DIY.  So I'm just pulling it from the BD so the data is still here.  If I can fix the original thread I will bring it back so you guys can still see the conversations that ensued.

This is my first attempt at a DIY Please bear with me

I'll add some pictures after we do Donny's on the 8th of November - these instructions are based on what I just went thru on mine over the past two evenings.

1. Set Park brake and chock rear wheels (note these procedures document one side only)
2. Jack and support front end (DO NOT get under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack)
3. Remove hub cap and tire/wheel assembly (If using a lug wrench, loosen lugs prior to jacking)
4. Loosen brake fluid reservoir cap to allow venting during later procedures
5. Using 3/8” Allen socket, loosen the two caliper mounting bolts until disengaged from steering knuckle
6. Remove bolt securing ABS wire to steering knuckle
7. Remove bolt securing brake line and ABS wire to front axle rod mount (13mm head)
8. Remove bolt securing ABS wire to inner fender (13mm head)
9. Open hood, and disconnect ABS wire at plug
10. Carefully open the clamps retaining the ABS wire to the brake line and remove the ABS wire from the clamps
11. Bring the ABS wire out of the frame etc. and make sure it is not caught around anything.
12. Remove the brake caliper from the steering knuckle, and hang with wire (coat hanger works good) from the coil spring to keep the stress off of the brake line
13. Remove the outer brake pad from the caliper
14. Using a large “C” clamp, compress the caliper piston slowly by pressing in on the inner brake pad until fully withdrawn (check the level in the master cylinder to make sure it is not overfilling, as leaking brake fluid will make a big mess)
15. Remove the inner brake pad from the caliper
16. The following steps are for a dual rear wheel vehicle – if you have a single rear wheel, skip to 17
a. Using a long pry bar or crow bar, immobilize the hub by resting the bar on the ground and into the lug studs or thru the axle universal joint yoke – be sure to remove this bar immediately after use
b. Using a 7/8” 6 point socket or wrench, remove the 8 bolts retaining the hub extension
c. Remove the hub extension (my require striking the extension with a hammer – do not deform the mounting surfaces)



17. Remove the cotter pin retaining the hub nut
18. Remove the hub nut
19. Remove the 4 hub/bearing mounting bolts using a 14mm 12 point socket
20. Remove the hub/bearing/rotor assembly from the steering knuckle (This part was completely seized up on my truck and required the following procedure to remove)
a. Install hub puller to the lugs (Miller C-844 with c-844-1 extra leg or OTC 32937 & extra puller leg)



b. Tighten puller against end of axle
c. Using included striking wrench, tighten the puller to the axle, and continue pulling to remove hub/bearing from steering knuckle
d. Once hub/rotor assembly was removed, it was found that the unit bearing had separated, leaving the mounting member still stuck in the steering knuckle.
e. Remove puller from hub/rotor assembly and install in mounting member of unit bearing using the mounting bolts for this part
f. Tighten puller, and using a chisel, begin separating the mounting member from the steering knuckle.
g. After it is removed, the unit bearing can be reassembled carefully using a press or hammer with wooden protection pad
h. After hub/bearing is removed from old rotor in future step, verify that the outer seal was not displaced during pulling, and reinstall if it was displaced (I was able to do this with a large flat blade screwdriver that did not have a sharp tip)

this picture shows the inner seal


21. Remove the ABS sensor from the hub/bearing assembly (you will need a 5mm Allen wrench, and need to shorten the short leg so that it is no longer than ¾” measured from the long leg) remove the bolt, then twist and pull the sensor out of it’s mounting hole
22. Remove the lug studs – can be done with a shop press if you have one, or by striking the studs with a hammer. If using the hammer method, use extreme caution to not damage the threads of to be removed)
23. The rotor will now separate from the hub/bearing assembly. (inspect the outer seal as described in 20.h above)



24. Clean the hub/bearing assembly:
a. The area of the hub/bearing assembly that mounts to the steering knuckle needs to be free of rust, and the mounting face checked for flatness (make sure any burrs caused by the chisel use above are removed) Wire wheel on a drill or surface prep disk on a die grinder are the preferred methods
b. The area of the hub/bearing assembly that mounts to the rotor needs to be completely free of rust, to include the bore surface that aligns the rotor to the assembly
c.  The lug studs should all be cleaned (both the thread areas, and the button head)
25. Install new rotor to the hub/bearing assembly and install the lug studs - can be done with a shop press if you have one, or by striking the studs with a hammer. The hub/bearing/rotor assembly must be supported on a firm surface, and the studs be pressed all the way in, failure to fully press in could result in loose conditions after reassembly
26. Prepare parts for reinstall (These steps are VERY important to ensure that all parts fit properly together, and maintain tightness)
a. The steering knuckle needs to be free of rust, and the mounting face checked for flatness (make sure any burrs caused by the chisel use above are removed) Wire wheel on a drill or surface prep disk on a die grinder are the preferred methods – coat the mounting area with thin film of never seize
b. The spacer plate mounting area needs to be free of rust, and the mounting face checked for flatness (make sure any burrs caused by the chisel use above are removed) Wire wheel on a drill or surface prep disk on a die grinder are the preferred methods
c. The brake shield mounting area needs to be free of rust, and the mounting face checked for flatness (make sure any burrs caused by the chisel use above are removed) Wire wheel on a drill or surface prep disk on a die grinder are the preferred methods
d. The hub extension (if equipped) needs to have both mounting surfaces and pilots free of rust and flat.
e. The wheel rim needs to be free of rust and flat (do not damage aluminum wheels from over-aggressive cleaning)
f. The lug nuts need to be cleaned, and if 2 pc (dual rear wheel) the area between the washer and nut should have 2 drops of motor oil to lube interface
g. The axle spline should be cleaned, then coated with never seize
h. The caliper slide areas of the steering knuckle must be free of rust, and coated with never seize
i. The caliper slide surfaces knuckle must be free of rust, and coated with never seize
j. The area of the caliper where the inner brake pad slides must be free of rust and coated with a very slight film of never seize
27. Install 2 hub mounting bolts into the holes in the steering knuckle to support the spacer plate
28. Place the brake shield against the hub/bearing assembly, with the ABS wire thru the center hole
29. With the ABS sensor UP, align the axle, and install the hub/bearing/rotor assembly to the steering knuckle and start the two bolts to hold in place. Install the other two bolts, and torque all 4 bolts to 125 ft. lbs.
30. Install the washer and hub nut, and torque the hub nut to 175 ft. lbs. Check the alignment of the cotter pin hole with the hub nut, and tighten nut as needed to insert a cotter pin and secure.
31. Install the ABS wire bracket to the steering knuckle.
32. Install the brake pads into the caliper, and position the caliper and install caliper bolts
33. Install the ABS wire back onto the clamps on the brake line, and install mounting bolts removed above
34. Re-connect the ABS wire under the hood
35. Re install the hub extension (if equipped) and torque bolts to 145 ft. lbs.
36. Install the wheel and tire, and lug nuts and snug all 8 in a crossing pattern
37. Torque the wheel lugs to 145 ft. lbs. (can be done with someone holding the brake, or by immobilizing the axle as above
38. Install the hub caps
39. Close the master cylinder cap
40. Pump the brakes to obtain a firm pedal – do not attempt to move the vehicle until the brake pedal is firm
41. Test drive vehicle
42. Celebrate your success with your favorite frosty beverage
43. Apply for “Shade Tree Certified” status at DodgeOwnerForums.com
Install, Owners, & Service Manuals for many years & makes:
http://www.scribd.com/lilfroger

 

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